E's Surf Report: surprisingly fun

cruised down to Sloat this morning around 8:45 not expecting much. Noticed a relatively smooth sea-surface, then saw much surfer activity in the parking lot. Two main congregated peaks at sloat.. seeming to break better than 2nd lot sloat or vicente (north) but who knows... a two football field sized stretch of surf zone between the two peaks was unoccupied. Waves were walling up and peeling/crumbling/slightly-barrelling pretty much all over the place, and with some constancy. Most waves were measly and gutless. A few mini bombs crept in here and there, making the session exciting and worthy.. I caught a few peaky lefts with suck-out/crumbling drops, where you'd be throwing yourself over the ledge, then grabbling your outside rail and projecting/thrusting your board ahead and down the wave so as to better absorb the impact of the drop and to get out ahead of the broken lip and onto the concave, racy unbroken section. I then pretty much got into the mouth of a little barrel on a chunky right.. It was thrilling to be in there at all, even for a split second. I came out with a head of speed and did this big kooky top-turn while giggling and laughing and beaming because of the barrel experience. I think that part of the allure of the barrel experience is the intimacy you feel with such a sooth/fluid/powerful/beautiful expression of natural energy. Surfers often allude to the slowing of time or the slowing of motion, when describing what it's like to be in the barrel. Thinking back on the brief instant of barrellage i enjoyed this morning i see what those surfers were talking about. Somehow the pure speed of motion i felt mixed with the visually mesmerizing circular rotation of the mass of liquid energy around me to create a timeless sensation.. I can't, in truth, say that i felt that way while experiencing it, but now, looking back, that is how i remember my experience.. Something of profundity clicked within my psyche while experiencing that particular moment in the barrel, something having to do with many forces of nature and mind coming together into a focal point, and veritibly humming with significance.

ugly-ass OB barrel from early august
ugly OB barrel

south swell Sept 11 ob
south swell at ob

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Posted by: free online poker at January 15, 2005 07:26 PM

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