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well.. the solid SW swell is definitely still running! HARD! Jerm and i were expecting to catch the fading aftermath of this most enjoyable swell this monring.. we pulled up to the foggy parking lot at 2nd lot Sloat, and saw some glassy bombs cruising in.. We paddled out and quickly realized that shit was serious out there! Almost every wave barrelled, and the lips were thicker than they have been these last few days.. Jerm pulled into a giant barrel on his first wave and got completely obliterated.. I managed to avoid the barrel all morning :( but did connect on some uber-fast/chunky lefts and two rights.. About 6 or 7 large sets came through during our session but they proved too disorganized and weirdly breaking to actually ride.. the medium sized waves were the best, and just churned along the inside sandbar.. we saw MANY spitting barrels and also many seals! only two other surfers and they didn't take off on ANY waves! wimps!
anyhoo.. it's frickin good out there, though very serious.. know your limits!
thumbs down goes to Robme for bailing on this mornings sesh.. we missed you out there Robme.. you would have enjoyed!
"Frustrating South" - A friend of mine swears by Bolinas on the big south swells.. you might want to check it out.. i'm not sure about Cronkite.. might be worth the check.. though it sucks to pay $5 to get over the bridge..
Kaiser - i believe you on the broken leash.. shit has been thumping lately.. i thought for sure that i broke my board this morning while getting thrown with the lip then crunched by a few sucking/close-out barrels.. but.. miraculously.. no breakage!.. hope you get some today bruddah!
Kus - represent Jersey hard man! check out these pics from jersey
Jersey barrels
(thanks to Jerm for the link!)
Ahhh! I missed it. Oh well. Maybe lunch time, though the tide is kinda backwards. Props to y'all for representing this morning!
Posted by: robme at September 11, 2002 11:00 AMThat's kewl robme. With your fearless take offs you probably woulda got shacked!
Posted by: lerm at September 11, 2002 12:23 PMI hit it last night and figured I'd try the south end of the lot at VFW's. It looked big, but workable. I had a nice dry hair paddle out, and found big boys rolling in once i got to safety out back. I caught 2 fast rights and proceeded to be trapped in side by each. I got freakin' pounded. It didn't help that I had my longboard and it seemed that there was always about 10 closeout waves right behind the one I took. After getting drilled plenty, I decided I'd had enough beating and paddled north to where I was the day before. There it was a manageable head high.
Man. Crazy stuff out there! Some of those where I started had to be at least 1-2 feet overhead on the take offs...of course most of those were practically closeouts and landing right on my head. Nothing like a good beating at OB!
Posted by: Toxi at September 11, 2002 02:13 PME, nice work this a.m. I checked it since it was 9/11 and I figured a tribute in the way of a couple lefts would have been fitting this a.m. but didn't get wet. Must have been burned out from the last 3 days of sun and surf. Must have seen you guys out at first lot as I saw about 5 guys out.
Anyway, got some short video from yesterday and some pix so send me an email and I will send them to you if interested.
Posted by: Kaiser at September 11, 2002 02:37 PMthat's crazy that you were out there on a longboard Toxi! Faaarrrk! So many of those waves required precision duck-diving to deal with.. you be crazy, man!
looks a bit junky out there now.. i guess the wind picked up (14knots at OB)..
i'm going to yoga again tonight.. i'm psyched..
Posted by: e at September 11, 2002 03:01 PMe
yall..was it too foggy this morning to where you could barely see in front of your face at 7am??
Posted by: scott at September 11, 2002 03:11 PMscott.. it was foggy.. but kind-of patchy fog.. thick one minute then not so bad the next.. we couldn't really see the waves from the parking lot at Sloat.. but then could see then pretty good at Second Lot Sloat (around 6:30am).. isn't that weird!
anyhoo..
e
Posted by: e at September 11, 2002 03:29 PMoh it stayed pretty fun. i got out at 2 at 2nd lot and 4 of my bros were leaving but one other arrived so we were on it. the sets STILL were coming and behaved more like a west swell on that fuller tide than the south it's been.
waves were easy to catch and drops were steep but the shoulders were weak and there was some chop on them......but they did have that high tide white water rumble....you know the type. no matter how deep you duck it's gonna drag ya.
it was doing that avalanching thing as opposed to throwing but still a clean overhead drop with no crowd.....i'll take it.
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