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small and glassy/messy

pretty small and without power out at OB this morning. The surface looks real glassy from afar but the conditions within the impact zone are more jumbled and messy.. there are rippable sections here and there, however. The area between first and second lot Sloat seemed the best along OB.

Yesterday (Saturday) Jerm, Robme and I road-tripped south, looking for signs of the SW groundswell.. We began to see evidence in Half-Moon Bay, at Kelly Ave.. Peaky/groundswelly mounds were rolling in from the South.. but the wind was cold and strong and it didn't look tasty enough to draw us in.. We eventually cruised all the way down to Davenport, saw it was relatively flat, then turned around and surfed Waddell, where the swell was definitely showing and peaks were scattered throughout the beach. By the time we paddled out the wind was doing its best at ruining the conditions, generally causing havoc and knocking down otherwise rippable wave faces. Lerm caught a few nice ones... I witnessed him nail an expert take-off on a pitching/steep wave.. I wasn't feelin' it, however.. the wind was raging, throwing up eye-stinging spray, the waves were solid but hacked... I declared "bullshit" on the surfing and decided to cruise over to Ano Nuevo in our wetties and resume the session in the more wind-protected pocket of beach up at Ano... Lerm agreed and we cruised up..

Ano has a reputation for sucking/barrelling waves and intense localism.. soo.. we had that on our minds as we walked down the beautiful trail to the grandiose/arcing beach. The wind was raging out of the north here as well.. but a big, curving cliff wall protects the surf spot from the wind, creating groomed/glassy conditions. The waves were shoulder-high and barrelling.. On my second or third wave i dropped in on my backside, pig-dogged, and got briefly slotted, enjoying a quick moment of in-and-out barrelage, witnessed by Robme! soo.. needless to say, that was a highlight. A bunch of waves later i was started to get the bad vibe from this one surly local guy.. soo.. i came in and played with Silus (robbie's son) for a bit.. then i went back out with Robme to catch a few more.. I was just kinda flowing in my zone, getting waves, trying to bash the lip, etc.. I made a very poor decision on this one wave, however.. the surly local had the inside position on a wave, but i was able to get to my feet first, so i took off on the wave, then realized he was behind me and kicked out.. but too late! i come out of the wave to the sight of a pissed-off surly local who spit at me, "Are you fucking stupid! you stupid FUCK! What the FUCK! you FUck! etc.." i was about to explain my "first to my feet" philosophy then i changed my mind, kept my mouth shut and paddled away.. He paddles out to the peak and screams to all his cronies that i just dropped in on him.. shiiiiitt.. i took one more wave and got the funk out of there! it sucked.. but.. it was kinda my fault as i made the wrong move on the wrong guy at the wrong spot.. i should have known better.. but.. it's weird when you're in your rhythm.. at OB i would have been fine.. anyhoo.. I didn't let that incident ruin the memories of my little barrel and the other good rides at Ano.. that place is cool and most-definitely rages huge on the right swell.. the wind-protected nature of the little cove combines with the steeply sloping beach to create some classic barrelling conditions.. just keep a low profile!!

siiickk!!

that sucks about that local down there. hopefully the locals wi stay down there.

Posted by: scott at September 9, 2002 08:23 AM

Have any of you guys surfed that little cove just south of Pedro Point? I seem to always for get about it...but it seems like somewhere right around there might pick up the south swell.

Posted by: Toxi at September 9, 2002 09:44 AM

i've never surfed over there..seems likes it's way too rocky

Posted by: scott at September 9, 2002 10:56 AM

Hola Ethan:

I was the lovely Costa Rican girl surfing next to you that day. I have to hand it to you for your composure and poise. If you ever decide to come back down to Ano, look me up.

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