fun... posse in effect
surfed VFWs from 6:10 till 8.. just about all my SF surfing pals showed up for the dawn patrol.. Lerm represented, even though he spent the night "waxing poetic" with the lady-friend.. Robme showed up.. and wowed all with some impressive surfing.. taking off on one gnarled/sucking closout in particular.. Robme has a penchant for such antics.. The "Originator" Tom Haan was out there.. slanking along in his smooth east-coast style.. also Sam-the-Man and BBers showed up and ripped the place up..
the conditions were peaky and head-high.. glassy when we first paddled out but near blown-out by the time i came in.. Tons of waves, breaking not too steeply.. very peaky.. fun! I witnessed a sea-lion surfing a wave..
oh yeah.. last night was some of the best conditions of the summer.. definitive evening glass-off.. head-high/barrelling peaky waves.. I spent one memorable moment in the "white-room".. i basically pulled into this close-out barrel on the inside.. the wave was all foamy and sucking and white/brown.. i was grabbing my rail on my backside and just holding-on... trying to make it out to daylight.. but.. NOPE.. the wave shut down and just jackhammered me into the shallow bottom.. it was sweet..
Yo posse! It's fun to surf with a crew -- no one even tried to surf that peak once we all recognize that we knew each other. Shit.
What I saw: E caught just about every wave that came in, rights and left, throwing buckets, grabbing rail -- seriously smooth surfing, turn to turn to turn. I know he wants to be aggro, but don't blame him if he's got style! Jerm has mastered the foam ball take off. I think he started doing it about a week ago and now has it dialed in.
Posted by: robme at August 28, 2002 10:15 AMi second the Jerm foam-ball takeoff observation.. the dude took off in the foamball/pitching-lip yesterday evening on a gnar-gnar wave.. it was nice..
Posted by: e at August 28, 2002 10:27 AMYou got that right about OB last night! Surfed it from around 5:45 to around 7:45 I must have caught 15 to 20 waves right in front of Beach Chalet...anything from chest to head high plus. Most of the waves had great shape! Fairly mushy out back, but when you hit that inside section they'd usually barrel up a bit. Plenty of really long, long, lines!
It was beautiful at sunset by the way with all the colors bouncing off the water! F*cking awesome!
Posted by: Toxi at August 28, 2002 12:28 PMtoxi.. nice that you were out last night.. such great surfing conditions.. i agree that the sunset was spectacular! hopefully that was just a taste of what the season has in store for us..
Posted by: e at August 28, 2002 12:30 PMi ended up at pacifica last night. tonight OB. hope it's good... sounded like you guys had fun this morning. awesome. first day of school; not so awesome.
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