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Yo surf freaks!
Hope everyone out there is enjoying this splendid surf season.
Today witnessed some Nor-Pac juice alight our shores.
Personally i preferred yesterday’s mellow, glassy, offshore sweetness.
I made a conscious decision to get in the barrel, as conditions
seriously would never be better for this junior varsity surfer to
clock barrel time.
I tried to slow myself on takeoffs..
I grabbed the wall with my hand.. both backside and front.
I really tried to zone into the wave and get under the pitching lip.
But.. sadly… i only managed a few close-out, lip-launching-over moments.
Still super fun though!!
Saw some niceness old-timers BVB and Slayer slashing serious arcs in the water today.
Always humbling to surf with the old-school shredders.
I know some of you out there have been scouring the coast lately.
Scoring those rare birds that only fire with E winds and pumping WNW groundswell.
Someone told me about a little spot north of here.
A rare point-break that only works on NE winds and a really high tide.
He drove up overnight when conditions looked right.
The next morning.. after camping in an Ewok glen of old-growth forest…
dude hiked out to the spot and saw lines wrapping in.
Two old salty-dog longboarders were climbing down the trail… hooting.
They looked at my friend… climbing out of his tent… and said, “Ya picked the right night to camp here!”
He ended up surfing for 3 hours on his pavel fish… until the tide dropped too low and the rocks went
from fin-scraping to board-crunching.
Another guy i know had been waiting on this one spot for a few years.
He’s a techy guy, obsessed with google-earth surf-spot exploration.
He was convinced that a spot not too far from here would fire with the right
SW swell direction and light E winds.
I’d driven by this spot probably 100 times and hadn’t even really given it much thought,
Not because the coastal contour didn’t look promising… but because of the serious tooth presence in this area.
I’m talking “we need a bigger boat!” sharky.
Anyway my boy cruised out there with a friend one particular recent morning.
He said the lefts were, “all-time, bro!”
He said he and his friend surfed 4 sessions in one day.
All at the same spot.
They’d surf for an hour… come in… light one up.
Gaze out at the perfect lines reeling in.. Suit back-up..
and surf again.
Soo.. sessions are happening every day.
Most of us sit in our cubes.. tickling the keys… scrambling for our dawn-patrols or
end of the day city surfs… while others work seasonal jobs… sell their
software companies.. pimp their hos… gigolo in Brazil… sling pizzas all night…
and score righteous pristine autumnal California gold.