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East Coast sojourn.
Family, a friend’s new baby, wedding.
A few days in an old favorite beachy place.
East coast storms brewing.
Tales of 15-foot swells.
Got to the spot a day late.
But still things were pulsing.
Only a few hours of sunlight.
Get to the rental house after 6-hour drive and 1hr ferry.
Everybody wants to sleep but i know my surf window is small.
Sprint down to the ocean to check the scene.
20 minute run through a beautiful forest.
I can already tell it’s offshore here.
But i’ve been coming to this place my whole life and i know
the best waves are a 20-minute drive.
Not usually waves along this stretch.
But… get to the rocky coast and i see lines.
Waves breaking here and there along the reefy patch of coast.
I see one wave that is definitely surfable right out front.
Holeee shitt.. i’m gonna get waves!!!!
Look up the coast.. and see a point up there… with waves peeling.
Run up along the rocks for a closer look.
It’s a nice, steeply-breaking wave.. but too many rocks.
See another possible point-wave in the distance.
run another 15 minutes around the bend for closer inspection..
It looks solid!!
Breaking off a huge rock on the outside.
Peeling fast at first and then backing off before dumping into a shallow reef.
Watch it for 15 minutes and see countless rideables come through.
nobody on the beach.
nobody even thinking about it.
Never heard of people surfing this place.. but.. undoubtedly it’s been surfed.
Run like angel wings back down the beach.. down the trail.
back to the house.
Board stashed in a basement a few miles away.
hop in the car and Get it.
It’s all beat up and waterlogged.
Quick solor-rez fix.
aghh no leash and the wave it super rocky…
no surf shop in this place.
Find an old boogie and use that leash.
dig wax out of luggage.
RUN back down there.
Paddle out into the warmish water in an old 3/2.
Water feels tropical.
Surf the tropical-storm groundswell for a few hours.
Ride after ride.
My mom watching on the beach to make sure i don’t wreck myself.
Girlfriend tries to come out on a boogie and takes some whacks and gets
caught inside by the rocks.
I paddle in to try to help but she’s pissed.
She thinks i ignored her and tunnel-visioned the surf.
Deal with that later.. must… get.. more… waves… now.
Surfed for a while longer.
Came in and girl didn’t talk to me for 2 days.
Surf went down overnight.
Not much the next day.
These pics are from the day-after.