This morning began with a 5:30am attempt at glassy good times.
By 6:15 i was back in bed… flatness stymying sessionability.
Checked the beach around 10:30.. kinda onshore… some white-caps out there.
A few surfers floating about and duckdiving into infinity… didn’t look that great.
Did some work then decided to surf even though it was shitty.
Took a little labor day ripper.
Got back down to the beach and heyyyy.. it’s shaping up out there.
Glassier now… and the wind is actually calming.
It’s hot on the beach and it looks like Ocean “laguna” beach.
Bikinis in effect. Kids in the water.
Paddled out and got rejected.
Walked down the beach and tried again.. this time a dry-hair paddle-out.. wtf?
2 hour session filled with long, slowish-but-fun rides.
Kept getting glassier throughout the surf.
No drift.. not many people out. beautiful day.
Best ride was a long right.
where I managed an enjoyable, drawn-out cutback - back into the whitewater…
then rebound and pump into another cutback.
Felt nice and balanced.
Got out of the water… came home.. chilled for a bit..
Went for a bike ride down to Kelly’s Cove.
The KCLB representing in the parking lot.
Bronzing and taking it in.
BBQ, pit-bulls, cool personas behind black shades.
Definite peak working up there.
Saw some barrels and airs.. some reverses too.. some solid surfing.
I saw a few drop-ins and was waiting for a confrontation but nothing happened.
I sat up on a rock near the Cliff House.
By now (4:30) the ocean was sheet glass and the prettiest peaks were
cruising toward shore and wedging-up into little A-frames.
Maybe 5 or 6 days a year we get this.
And since when is it windy/frumpy at 10:30am and glassy smooth at 4:30?
photos from surfersvillage.com