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Seamus wakes up groggy in the little town of Ballyshannon, NW Ireland.
He looks out at the window, notices the wind and decides it’s a good
day to skip work.
The swell is up and the winds are right.
It’s cold as he heads out the front door of his little cottage in the countryside
Green hills roll toward the horizon.
His mate Kevin swings by in his little Fiat and throws Seamus’ board on top.
They ride down the bumpy, winding road for 30 minutes.
Past an old, stone village where the boys know everyone.
Out past the ol McKracken farm… where they pull off onto muddy
The boys talk about getting sauced the night before at the pub.
They talk about the last hurling match against rival Bunduran.
Also about the huge knockers on Clare. yeesh.
They finally pull up to the top of the cliff that looks out over the ocean.
From this vantage they can see the 3 or 4 reefs that make up their local surf zone.
The two ledgy rights are looking tasty right now.
Offshores smoothing the surface.
Mild head-high pulses consistently breaking and peeling.
Only a few heads in the lineup… most likely friends of theirs.
They drive another 3 minutes down to the bottom of a canyon.
Don the 5/4, hood, lobster-claw gloves, 5 mil booties.
Head out for a surf.
a few photos from savethewaves.org
cube1 san diego photo
tri fins are dangerous shots
mike zabreski photo
Orange sky laced crystalline spindrift.
Quiet morning through state-wide beaches.
A mellow swell meets gentle easterlies.
A longboard lady glides 50 yards.
Afternoon throngs jostle for mushy peaks.
Someone skips surfing to get laid.
Someone takes care of their old granddad.
Someone plays catch with his kid.
Some gets to work at 7:30 to follow the market and work 12 hours.
Maybe someday his portfolios will shine strong..
House in Larkspur.
Fake blond, makeup-clad wife.
Kids in private schools.
House up in Tahoe.
Moving money. making money.
Retire at 50.
Buy a house in Monterey.
Retire and play golf.
Drink wine. Smoke cigars.
Humungoid waves all weekend. Sheesh.
I didn’t see any takers in the city, though i’m sure a few intrepid souls
Ginormo closeouts at Linda Mar as i hit the skatepark again yesterday.
The skatepark is almost as addictive as surfing.
The sloped transitions closely mimic wave-riding-sensations.
A few older guys were killing it in the park.
Big airs and grinds and gnarly lines.
A inline skater with a huge spiked mohawk was doing big airs.
Word on the street was that Santa Cruz went off?
need for speed’s photos
JOC sent this
Roping on the outer bars.
Grab your elephant gun and charge chargeables.
Or go to the P-town skatepark.
Arrived around 7:30.
One kid there already.
I’m horrible at skating but this park is super fun.
Sampled all the bowls and terrain.
Had one beef while trying to carve the big scooped-out bowl.
Still can’t drop in. That shit scares me. Any advice?
Kid leaves around 8 and i’m solo for 30 minutes until the man shows up.
Yells at me, “Park’s closed!!”
I told him the door was open when i arrived.
He’s all pissed at me, “Park opens at 9. Been that way for 2 years.”
I was just getting my session on too.
Nice sunny morning. beautiful skate park.
Can’t use it!
The man says no.
I stood outside the fence after he locked it.
Gazing at the unused cement good times.
Saw some waves out in the ocean. big ones.
Slate grey sky.
High-performance bumps of swell marching in.
All day long.
All weekend long.
The whole coast lighting up.
Central Coast beaches.
Santa Cruz reefs
Santa Barbara pocket points.
Glassy von glassalot.
Marin County secret stashes.
Fall is here.
Good to surf with Kaiser Sose, Bagel, the JOC and Pascal.
JOC dropping bombs on a stormy morning.
Bagel looking silky smooth on some big mushy rights.
Kaiser balanced and on-rail on some high-quality lefts.
Good times in the drink.
Also… today is Bagel’s birthday!
Both mundaka and steamer lane contests live on the web.
coldwaterclassic.net has better quality vid.
Maybe you can get both going at the same time?
Looks like the swell is still alive… but definitely down from yesterday.
Damn… Steamer Lane is a wave fantasy land…
when you take away the frothing throng of rippy local rippers and only have a few folks out.
Hope some of you sampled this first pulse of
autumnal Nor Pac juice.
Maybe a little El Cap?
Maybe some lined-up Baja?
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