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Pierre emailed photos from his local French beachie
Pierre emailed photos from his local French beachie
Another picturesque morning.
Headed out at the crack of dawn.
Didn’t go on a left i should’ve gone on.
Floated… not catching anything.
Finally caught a weak right.
Gorgeous orange full-moon setting over the western horizon.
Plate glass glassy glassiness.
Another guy paddles out.
I catch a small left.
Do a mellow turn.
Get caught inside.
Take 20 on the head.
Finally make it back out.
Wait for another.
Get kind-of annoyed at my shit surfing.
Even though it’s ridiculously beautiful out there.
Go for a nice right and eat it.
The other guy and i about 20 yards apart.
Between us we see violent activity just unde the water.
Massive boiling cauldrons and undetermined fleshy parts breaking the surface.
THe mass calms down and then appears again.. closer to me.
A huge fish jumps out of the water as if it’s being chased.
Something big is under there.
I IMMEDIATELY begin heading in.
So does the other guy.
I paddle like a man posessed.
Finally catch an insider into the shallows.
We talk to each other and agree something big and unusual was out there…
Yesterday i was called in because some surfer on the beach thought he saw whitey.
Now this morning another weird encounter.
Everybody’s talking about the stab mag Ruffo-meth article. I thought it was a rad piece of writing.
I’d love to here more underbelly true stories of the surf world.
photos from haywirephoto.com
A vibrant, beautiful land and people.
A fertile country rich in resources.
A history of advanced civilization steeped in Buddhism.
An imprisoned Nobel Peace price recipient/democracy-leader who was
elected by over 90% of voters.
An atmosphere of fear and despair.
No free press.
No free assembly.
No rule of law.
Severe brain-drain over the last 30 years.
Military Dictatorship comprised of uneducated, superstitious
The people stood up in 1988. Mostly students.
The government came down hard. Killing over 3000.
August 8, 1988.
Now the people are rising up again.
Let by the monks.
Marching in Rangoon and Mandalay.
Reaching out to the world.
Ralph McSwiggin lives in the outer aves.
He grew up in Los Gatos but always secretly wished he was from Santa Cruz.
He actually tells people he’s from Santa Cruz when they ask.
Ralph is 36. Unmarried. Has a dog named Spark.
He has the surfer/skater look and lingo down pat.
He has a large, strong figure and struts with machismo.
At the local coffee shop he can be seen gesticulating and conversing
about the spitting barrels he caught last week or the 2 week Mexi trip he has planned.
On land his surfing is all bravado and style.
He assumes local status and eyeballs any surf-styled dude he doesn’t recognize.
He’s lived in the sunset for 5 years.
He gives girl-surfers a hard time.. assuming they won’t make a section or surf well.
He also assumes that every girl surfer thinks he’s hot.
He assumes that every guy surfer is less-than-him.
Less local. Less shreddy. Less hard.
Out in the water, however, a cognitive disconnect can be observed with Ralph.
Ralph’s actual surfing skills don’t exactly match-up to his on-land persona.
His surf-decision-making is rash and un-refined.
He goes for waves he shouldn’t go for.
He usually sits too far inside… probably thinking that’s what all rippers do.
He’ll yell at you if he’s in your way while you’re riding a wave.
His style, once up and riding.. is stink-buggy and blocky.
Deep down Ralph is unhappy and lonely but he doesn’t realize that his own lame personality is what
pushes folks away.
Remind you of anywhere this past weekend?
this Jeremy Flores floater was ridiculous
Sean Davey photos
To make myself feel better I’ll say that the surf looked small, measly
and hardly fun out there this morning.
I’m sitting here on the computer waiting for some code to compile.
I could/should be jamming down the line on some head-high glassy nug…
but… gotta earn the money that pays the rent and buys the boards and
In all seriousness it looked damn fun around 6:30.
Small but highly sessionable.
Onshores should return this weekend so probably no need to come down to the beach.
A good weekend for watching movies in your crib with your lady as the rain patters
on the roof.
Maybe more good winds middle of next week.
Taylor Knox just went way beyond vertical on a sizeable wave. Taylor Knox shralps.
Timmy Reyes looking good but not quite tack sharp.
This is pretty funny
Gustavo sent this rad Kelly video
As Too Short says, “Blow the whistle!”
Windy in a bad way out by the beach this morning.
I watched a few wave forms munch toward shore.
Probably possible to ferret out a few rides.
Or maybe a 30 minute drive in either direction would find you wind-free?
Following your bliss or making money?
Live life for the now or for the future?
Combo of the two?
Sex Drugs and Rock and Roll?
Moderation, Asceticism and Spiritual Growth?
How would your life change if you knew you had 5 more years to live?
The JOC described some dark energy flowing in Santa Cruz.
Beach cleanup at 4-mile.
Strange tweeker asks for a garbage bag to help collect refuse.
JOC is skeptical.
This guy is obviously off his rocker.
JOC doesn’t see the dude again.
At the end of the day JOC sees a garbage bag at the top of the trail.
Looks inside and it’s filled with dead birds.
One of JOCs roomates is a smart, chill, attractive female.
She was riding her bike along the one north of town a few weeks back.
A car with two dudes follows slowly behind her for a while then passes her.
The car pulls over up ahead.
Dude gets out and hides in the bushes.
As she passes the guy is leering at her.
She yells “Get the FUCK away from me!” and steers clear.
They get back in the car and follow her again.
Tweeker surfer local dude glares over the cliff at JOC and friends as
they surf a spot north of town.
When JOC and friends finish session and return to cars..
All the tires have been slashed with a big knife and are flat.
Vortex at Mystery Spot.
12 hours of driving yesterday. argh!
I spent the extended weekend up north a bit and it was sweet i tellz ya!
I skated two of the wicked Grindline parks and surfed a few beautiful spots.
I’ll post a few amateur photos that i’ll post later. Names obviously omitted.
I’ve only skated a park once before so am an ABSOLUTE kook/newbie.
Two of the parks i visited were totally empty so it was perfect for baby steps.
All i ended up doing for a few hours at each park was pump for speed..
then skate up as high on the wall as comfortable.. then ride switch back down…
roll across the flats… then skate up the opposing wall switch and back down regular.
I did this about 3 billion times.. trying to get higher and higher each time.
I tried a few times to do a simple 180 at the top of my ascent but never really summoned
the sack to do it.
I also rolled around the parks a bunch….
doing my best to bank up high and simulate surfing turns.
Then… on my way home, i stopped at the skate park in Willits, which is amazing.
People were shredding face all over the park, however, so i didn’t even roll up one obstacle.
Bikers and skaters were launching and sliding and pulling bad-ass
high-speed dangerous maneuvers.
I was like, “daaaamn!”
Felt kind-of like pulling up to your favorite point break but not surfing
because of the tightly packed 40+
shredders killing every wave.
I plan to check out the Crocker-Amazon park before work one day this week.
The surf was also pretty stellar.
Scored probably my best waves in 4 or 5 months with my friend Jeff
at an exposed OB-esque beach break
somewhere in the great northlands.
Painfully glassy overhead peaky waves with only 1 or 2 other folks.
Kooked on a few but also rode one nicely…
deep, fading bottom turn followed by a full-tilt carve off the top of the wave.
Surfed an interesting pocket-beach/reef peak on my way up with a dude i met.
Quickly peeling, razor-edged shorebreak.
Crystal clear water.
Tough to distinguish the lip from the water.
Then on my way home shark-feared myself silly at the False Klamath.
Yup.. i named it.
Dude told me he saw two whities there last year.
Surfed it small, glassy and solo.
Could NOT stop thinking about the landlord.
Breath-taking surf spot.
Pine-filled rugged nor-cal mountains in the background.
Sea-stacks rising down the coast.
Reefy, wedging wave forms.
Glassy when other parts of the coast were onshore.
Check it out if you don’t mind the tooth.
Looks like some humorous? man ape inspired shit went down on the blog.
Man Ape rankles like no other.
Hell yeah Slates won at Trestles!!
Instead i’m here at work. On the computer.
Trying to piece my way through the Facebook markup language.
Also trying to wrap my head around Ruby on Rails.
Fucking gnarlz gnarliness.
Two of my coworkers are Java maestros.
They invited me to the Java Users Group meeting last night at the GooglePlex in Mountain View.
I told them i’d be in WAY over my head.
Kinda like a 7-yr old first year New Jersey boogie boarder paddling out at 10ft Pipe.
Programming is heavier than surfing in a way.
Takes about as long to develop competence.
Same deal in terms of, “those that have it, have it. Those that don’t will always struggle.”
It can be just as daunting and intimidating.
Like staring out at 10 lines of white water with triple overhead
top-to-bottom sets smashing on the outside.
I dig programming but it scares me too.
Ocean looked buttery this morning.
Didn’t see the waves but the surface was money.
Probably head-high funneling perfection.
Nobody out with a ridiculous sandbar directly in front of my house.
Tonight i’m driving up to nor-nor cal.
Camping at Patricks Point.
Surfing at some nondescript beachie north of there in the morning (hopefully).
Then on to my Dad’s 60th birthday golf marathon at Bandon Dunes.
Hope y’all have a great weekend!
I think there is some sort of pro skater demo in the city on Saturday.
I saw an announcement for it on the window of the new surf shop at 45th and Noriega.
Also a sick concert at the Victoria Theater in the Mission on Saturday night.
Ray Barbee playing with the Mattson Two. I think Tommy Guerrero might be playing as well?
Should be rad.
Then the Melvins play in Sactown on Sunday night.
Don’t miss that shit if you like heavy music.
This is not a normal Melvins show.
They’ll be teaming up with Sludge-heavyweights Big Business for this one.
Pure Durdge metal mayhem.
Images from surfersvillage.com
Parko takes off on a smooth, chest high left.
Slinks his way through three rapid-fire off-the-tops.
I would’ve barely generated speed for one week-ass lip click.
Jordy Smith stylishly and viciously attacks the lip.
No regard for Parko’s seniority.
San Clemente spawning America’s surfing royalty.
Wardo, Archy, Beschens, Fletchers.
The Pier, T-street, State Park.
Churches, Uppers, Lowers, Cottons, Old Man’s.
Giant boobies producing radioactive waste that will
last 100,000 years… easy.
But it’s powering our air-conditioners.
A helpful and engaging book i’m reading right now.
“Zen mind Beginner’s mind” by Shunryo Suzuki.
Suzuki came from Japan in the 60’s? and began the
San Francisco Zen Center and also helped found
Green Gulch Zen Center in Marin i believe.
The book contains countless insights into leading a
centered, good life. It also gives the reader a feel for the
famously indescribable world of Zen.
Non-dualistic thinking. Focussing on one thing at a time.
Not trying to kill two birds with one stone. Effort vs non-effort.
The long, slow, un-exciting path toward progress.
The problems created through unhelpful, idealistic expectations about your own path.
The fact that enlightenment seems like a huge deal to those that don’t have it…
but nothing special to those that experience it.
He also sprinkles beautiful, poetic analogies throughout the book.
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