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Dang.. the Kauai cool-guy takes out my other least-favorite pro Damo in the final.
Oh well.. Kelly, Fanning, Parko, Bobby Martinez or Cory Lopez can’t win them all.
What’s up with no Brazzos in the top 20?
They seem to dominate the WQS.
But when was the last time a Brazilian won a WCT?
They represent almost 1/4 of surfers on tour.
Raoni Monteiro is the highest rated Brazilian at #24.
It’s really weird.
A good friend of mine just returned from a month in Costa Rica.
Each year for the last 4 or 5 years he’s been spending time at
a secluded, idyllic point break down there.
The absence of guest-houses in this zone keeps the throngs away.
But this year witnessed an uptick in the numbers of surfers.
He says boats started cruising in from a hugely popular nearby spot.
He also lamented a camping party of 15 Argentinians who came in and took over.
Gotta go further and further these days to find the uncrowded tropical surfing dreamland.
Or just don the wetter and find some local crevasses..
Speaking of which… same friend drove to the city from Santa Cruz yesterday and watched
glassy, tasty waves peel along at an undisclosed location.
A few wily surfers sniffed it out and rode chilled-out evening rollers with nare a soul about.
It’s out there… not too far.
Summer doldrums corrode effusive surf excitement.
Again it’s time for love-making, music-making, work-making, skate-shredding, etc.
This summer marks the moment at which i’ve been surfing half my life.
Began at age 16 at the Jersey shore.
boogied before that but acquired my friend’s old 6′2″ Bradshaw that summer.
Remember my first good down-the-line right.
Probably only chest deep.
Hoping my friends saw it but don’t think they did.
Got immediately addicted to the sensation of travelling along the unbroken face.
Pro Surfer’s blog
yup rza i dig on Antibalas Afrobeat Orchestra and also Orchestra Baobob. Love Fela Kuti
the best of the afrobeaters though.. obviously i guess.
If you dig on Miles Davis electric period:
On the Corner
Theme from Jack Johnson
You might enjoy a band called Banyan… who i take it is playing in Santa Cruz
later this month.. bummer is that their original guitarist Nels Cline (one of my alltime faves)
can’t make the show so Steve Kimock will be replacing him. Won’t be the same without the
good-vibed shredulocity of Cline.. but the grumpy/bad-vibed Kimock can lay down the smooth,
melancholic jams no doubt.