Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/ethan/niceness.org/wordpress/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 82
Conditions look to be lining up for the morning. The year is 1978 and this central coast spot is still relatively unknown. Tight, wedgy lefts funnel across a shallow rock shelf. The highway skirts the cliff-edge but most surfers haven’t thought to pull over. The narrow strip of private ranch land providing a buffer to keep the Morro Rock-bound masses away. Don and Charlie have been camping here for years. Feasting on the glassy rides and abundant crustaceous eats. On this trip up from their home in Santa Barbara they’ve brought their lady friends, a lot of firewood and a few sheets of high-quality blotter acid.
The first day was windless and beautiful. Chest-high grinders kept the boys elated for hours. The foursome dosed in the car as they passed Pismo Beach. They strategically parked the car down a narrow gully then hiked across a cow pasture and down a steep ravine to the pocket beach fronting the break. By the time they’d found their spot and watched a few sets flow in.. the acid was coming on strong. The rocky cliffs surrounding the beach pulsated with lysergic significance. Don keeled over in manic laughter at the profundity of a pelican diving into the water. The girls were still up in the field… running full speed toward a large grove of Eucalyptus.
Don and Charlie giggled and relished life as they paddled out to the empty lineup. The California dream screaming triumphant from their psyches. The water lapped and clicked the bottom of their boards. Anemone and starfish glowed magically a few feet below. Abundant physical energy welled up through their bodies and powered them into ride after ride. Carves, cover-ups and slashes were performed with as much regularity as one-footed surfing, standing strait without moving and lying prone with face as close to the wave as possible. New creative avenues opened without question. Like this was the obvious way to ride. Each ride began to represent a lifetime. The take-off birth. The kick-out death. Then with each paddle-out a resurrection.
As the trip grew in intensity, Don and Charlie kicked up to an elevated zone of surfing awareness. Instead of the usual responses to LSD; distraction and loss of focus, they were deeply mindful of the process at hand. Each stroke of the arm was given total psychological focus. Each wave analyzed and observed with total awareness and amplified energy levels. Subtle nuances of the unfurling wave were noted and reacted to. The two were surfing like they’d never done before. Taking off deeper. Turning off the bottom with increased precision and better timing. Powering off the top with gumption and style. The boys were ruling and the fact was not lost on them. As they observed each other shredding a deep empathy and brotherly joy rose between them. Deep, resolute hoots and howls echoed through the small cove.
Eventually the sunset brought the boys close to tears. They came in to start the fire and hang with their better halves. The wine flowed, coyotes howled and spirits soared on that wild night years ago in mythic California.
The Colonel emailed the following:
E, greetings from behind the Orange Curtain.
Was wondering if you might pass on a mission to your troops. The Colonel is in search of an old surf movie from way back in 1986, called Surf-Skate (hell of a title, huh?) Itâ€™s a Santa Cruz film and, in the Colonelâ€™s opinion, is the best Norcal surf flick of all time. Itâ€™s got great footage from Manresa to Ano, and everything in between, including some fantastically dated skate sessions and truly groovy Untouchables-esque punky ska session porno music.
Even if none of the boys are interested in sending a copy of this excellent film down THE 101 to THE 405 for an HB viewing party with the Colonelâ€™s kids, the word should get out that this bit of 80â€™s nostalgia exists and eBay eyes should stay peeled. After all, if you havenâ€™t seen Kevin Reed land early airs, or Marcel Soros hurling burning surfboards off the cliff at the Point (careful, hot coat, kids!), then you really havenâ€™t lived the surf-skate lifestyle.
NARRATION: The surf-skate lifestyle is one which includes radical performance.
ACTION: Backside off the LIP!
dream wave photo from saltwater-dreaming.com
A few great photos from surfersvillage.com
Curren Russian beachbreak
Medina on a giant