i like that first shot with the perfect spray and the sun. nice. i love evening sessions after the sun has gone down. so peaceful and the essence (for me anyway) of what the surf experience is all about. just appreciating the world around us and our incredible fortune to be able to participate in mother nature the way we do. we become one. we are one. one love!
posted by anon
Dec 8 2004
Talking about surfing is fun but frowned upon by many.
If it's crowded try to find your own peak.
Hold onto your board at all costs.
Project good vibes if possible.
Give a wave.
posted by J.O.C.
Dec 7 2004
When considering the dual analogies for life of surfing and music, I always thought that as a surfer, my energy would be like that of a jamming guitar. It turns out I was wrong. For surfing, there is the action of the surfer and the movement of the wave. For music, there is the steady rhythm and a freely shaped melody. And surfer is beat and wave is melody. Like I said, I always wanted my surfing to be a beautiful guitar solo, but the wave gets that honor. It is the wave’s shape, like the melody, which controls my emotions. Happy, light soaring, or heavy, thumping darkness. Mellow, or critical? We, surfers, are rhythm. All the moves are in frequency with the speed at which you are traveling. “Curren drops a good beat.” A pattern fit together, to fit a wave or fit a song. Bouncing techno, smash through the beat with your heels, be a raging ripping machine. Or feel the infinity of a single note, no rhythm needed, hold still and balance inside the sustained barrel.
Surfing makes you better at music, and music makes you better at surfing. After all, each is a type of self progression where you learn from the experience, and the experience of each is an interaction with a flow of energy. So one can help the other. Grab a pair of bongo drums, and practice laying down your cutbacks, gauges, and snaps in a rhythmic link. Visualize acoustically. Or grab an electric guitar, hit a long, wailing note, and be the best screaming barrel you can be.
I think Flamenco is the most stylish surfing. Soulful, certainly. Something in that deep song matches the passion of the ocean. And the incredibly paced energetic picking of the classical guitar conjures an image of a never-ending point break on a lush tropical coastline with set after roping set. Dance your feet to the flowing melody, as the wave speeds you along in perfectly morphing form. Garcia Lorca would have been an excellent surfer. Surfers are aesthetic poets.
Most importantly, perhaps we can project these experiences with energy onto the experience of life. Feel the highway rushing underneath your car, Time, and let the road roll up behind you and throw a barrel of the Universe over your head. Carve, sculpt your life, with enthusiasm.
Feel the beauty of floating in your favorite jam of music, “you can feel good about Hood,” and the joy of floating in the sea as groomed peaks flow from the horizon, and bring this Love into your life. Burst with it. Rejoice. Know the Energy.
posted by 3to5setsof7
Dec 1 2004
rector palm pads rule
when throwing down bertlemans
on hard ass cement
Mavs charging charger
Dec 1 2004
Cherrio, charging chargers who think they can charge like the charging chargness of chargability that is me, the Charging Charger of Charge. Fucking charged yesterday on some charging chargables...soooo chargable if you can charge like a charging chargible. Mid day charge was charging at about 2'' over my charging knees, but I was still charging like a good charging charger should. Doubt any chargers like you made it out past the charging white water...if you did, you likely charged a charging fecal mess into your charging wetter...it was that chargable out there!!!!! I kept clean 'cause I was charging in a charging banana hammock that I bought when I was charging the Speedo outlets last friday. Guess what? I charged it to my charge card! CHARGE!!!!!
posted by Pez
March 1 2005
Hey all....been a long time since I have posted. Work has been a drag and preventing me from browsing as well as surfing.
I hope that folks do not mis understand my intentions by publicizing that I was that initial guy who saw and helped reality checks buddy. I am very releived to hear he is ok and glad that everything went well.
Its a real intense situation that truely disturbs me and left me slightly distraut. I also just want to thank you guys for comming to our aid and putting forth all of your efforts.
This guy has a few people to thank, the first being is himself. I dont know how I know, but this guy wanted to live. It didnt take much work to get him breathing again and he just seemed to not want to give up. All of you who assume that he should not be in the water in the first place, please fuck off as you are probably the type of surfers who were 10 yards closer than I was or taking off on a wave towards his body only to ignore the situation. You know who you are and luckily I have already forgotten your faces as I seriously wish it were you face down in the water rather than someone who has the drive and courage to do something that is potentially dangerous and is told "you cant do that". That guy has some spirit and despite this event I sincerely hope he doesnt quit surfing. Maybe the sea was sending a message, but I for one will welcome this guy in any lineup.
He owes a lot to his friends who not only helped bring him in but put themselves at risk to assist. I also really think he responded to thier voices and he should feel comfortable knowing he has genuine friends who care for him and wanted him to make it through. They also worked like fucking hell to get him in. I can only hope that my friends would put in the same effort for me given the situation.
I would have done this for anyone out there in the water including people I dont like. A lot of us surfers need a reality check, a good look in the mirror and an attitude change. Surfing is not supposed to be like the rest of society, where we get ahead by ignoring others needs and stepping on people/ideals to get ahead. Its not supposed to be about "HEY I GOT IT!" or "did you see me on that wave". The spirtual element of surfing is dying and self centeredness, greed, selfishness and vanity within us is killing it. Im still going to surf as there are good surfers with sound characters who still inspire me. Sounds corny but EDDY WOULD GO can teach us a lot about surfing and what it means to take part in this blessing that is surf. Surfing has soul and you either are destroying it, enslaving it or allowing it to embrace you.
Please send my thanks to that guy as he both reminded me of many things and inspires me to not only challange myself in surfing but more importantly in life. I WANT TO LIVE TOO!!!!!
Posted by: pez